740 third seat

I'm clueless. Who's done this out there?

240 exhaust boom

If anyone has any experience with this system or suggestions on how to decrease the noise without losing performance I'd appreciate the assistance. I would also appreciate knowing if there are any Volvo clubs or if anyone in the Heidelberg area shares my interest in maintaining my own vehicle.
Stan Kromfols

I doubt that it's inherent. It is possible that the turbo muffler has a loose baffle which vibrates under some conditions -- I don't know how you'd diagnose this without simply replacing the muffler. If the booming is caused by vibrations transmitted through the car's body, relocating one of the mounting points should prevent it. Rubbing should be easily disclosed by visual examination -- remember that the engine will torque over slightly on its mounts under load. How are those motor mounts holding up, anyway? Sorry I can't help more without hearing it myself -- has anyone had a similar experience?

A/C degrades performance

Is this normal for the turbo model?
Does the non-turbo model suffer from this problem?
Is there any cure for this poor performance?

No clue. Help, experts!

1800S clock

I've never worked on this particular clock, but, assuming it's similar to other contemporary car clocks, I'll take a stab. The clock has two parts: a conventional, mainspring-driven mechanism, and an electric gadget that winds the mainspring every eight hours or so. The electricity is supplied through an internal "fusible link," a thin wire that corrodes through pretty easily over the years. You can repair this by soldering in a piece of buss wire and fusing the clock externally when you install it in the car.

I would think many local watch repair shops could clean and/or fix the mechanical part of the clock, particularly since you have a stock of spare parts. Then again, there seem to be very few 1800s with working clocks out there, so maybe I'm way off base. Experts?

240s miss at idle

You've covered any ignition problems, so let's rule that out. You therefore have either a mechanical problem or a fuel/air mixture problem. I don't think cam wear would show up on two cars only at idle and around 2500 rpm, but I would check the valve clearances (possibly set incorrectly on both cars by the same guy) and ensure the timing belt tensioners are not allowing slop.

A mixture problem is more likely. Both your cars have continuous fuel injection, and a failure of the airbox thermostat (see related question) would cause an over-rich mixture under some conditions. Also common are vacuum leaks -- FI can compensate for these beyond the point where they would be apparent on a carburetted motor, but there's a limit. Check all hoses and fittings -- you may be in for a hunt; I once had a heck of a time finding the unglued lid on a fuel vapor cannister (the charcoal filter thing) that was causing me all sorts of problems. Good luck!

262C 4-speed conversion

I think this would be a lot of work, but it should be possible. You will need the transmission, shifter, bellhousing and transmission wiring harness from the donor car, and, of course, a new clutch. The hardest part might be hanging the new pedals and routing the clutch linkage. I doubt very much that the procedure is detailed in any publication, but a Volvo shop manual on the 260 series should show you how the new installation should fit. The 262C is no different mechanically than the other 260's. Be aware that this modification will reduce the resale value of a "collectible" Volvo -- but, if that's what you want to do, go for it!

122S engine swap

If anyone has done a swap, or has seen one, or even has some ideas, please E-mail me with info.

Many Thanks,
Mark Detro

I'm sure it's possible to do what you're proposing, but I have an alternate solution: 1) replace your T-35 with an M41 / J-type OD Volvo transmission. It will use the same mounts and driveshaft as your T-35, and the bell housing will bolt onto your motor, and it is extremely durable. 2) Rebuild your B18 or replace it with a fresh B20. A properly put-together B20 is the most trouble-free motor known to man -- if you replace those rarely in tune SU carbs with a Weber DGV -- and it can be made to produce as much power as most domestic straight sixes.

This is both simpler and less expensive than putting in -- what? A GM "iron duke?" A Ford Pinto motor? I understand your being fed-up with the T-35, but I would stick with Volvo stuff. Don't take any points off the board on purpose!

Expert sends:

I'm no purist, but from a practical standpoint, I'd say Phil is right on this one. Why replace the engine when the transmission is the problem? It would be much easier to replace that crappy BW35 automatic with a nice, manual Volvo M-41 overdrive or M-40 non-overdrive transmission. Of course, you'll also need the drive shaft, bellhousing, clutch, linkage and pedal, but it's still easier than an engine swap, and the development work has already been done.

Pulsating brakes

The purpose of the upgrade was to increase the size and cooling capacity of the brakes to prevent excessively rapid wear. I presume from your question that the brakes perform properly upon installation, and that the problem comes back over time, which would indicate that there is nothing else wrong with the system. If this is the case, I have no advice to give -- has anyone had similar problems and found a solution?

Easy rust repair?

Anyone have any experience with these products? Do they work? Are they better than fish-oil primer? What if you need to remove the coating later?
Glenn

I'd like to know that myself -- what do you people think?

Airbox thermostat failure

Not knowing much about the newer cars, I can imagine a test involving measuring resistance between two pins of a connector and noting the change while heating the thermostat with a hair dryer. That's a wild guess and I'll list this as a "no clue." Can anyone tell us how to verify this failure?

Expert sends:

Found on page 250-2 in the Bentley Volvo 240 series service manual:

"1) Remove the air cleaner, then separate the shutter valve assembly from the air cleaner housing.

2) Cool and heat the shutter valve thermostat, and check that the valve moves to the full cold and full hot positions shown in fig. 3 (page 250-3).

Air preheat system shutter valve:

• full cold - above 50 deg F.
• full hot - below 41 deg F.

3) Replace the thermostat if the shutter valve fails to reach full extension at either temperature extreme."

Hope this helps.

R134a conversion on a 164E

Partial answer: everything you need to repair your system is available by mail from RPR in California. You can contact Rusty there by E-mail at rusty166@concentric.net -- he may know about the R134a conversion. I can tell you that it is not simple -- O-rings and seals need to be of a different material, and fittings will need to be changed as a minimum.

The best opinions I've been able to get suggest that you have your system repaired using the original-style parts, and just run R12 in it. This work must be done by a professional shop -- you do not want to vent Freon into the atmosphere (it will just make Texas even hotter...). More advice is most welcome, experts.

Expert sends:

Might I suggest my web page for more information about the conversion from R-12 to R-134a? Look in the Air Conditioning section. Apart from my own opinion on the subject, I've included some Internet references.
http://www.startext.net/homes/ggoodspe/INDEX.HTM

Color code for wheels

The color was common to all Volvos of the era, and I would call it more silver than grey, but I have no idea of the color code. Who can help?

1800E speedometer error

Secondly, for the last little while the tachometer needle seems to be getting stuck when I shut off the engine (does not return to 0). Can I open it up and oil it, or "don't touch and let a technician do the surgery?"
Carm

A new cable should not have changed your speedo calibration. I know that there are a variety of drive gears which fit in the OD end of the cable drive (can be exchanged with the OD still in the car) -- you need one with more teeth than your current unit has. As to the Smiths gauges, I don't know. I would try to contact MoMa Engineering in Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA for gauge questions or repair (I don't think they're on the net...).

240 doesn't idle when cold

I don't know much about the fuel injection on the newer cars (fourteen years old is "newer" to me...), but I believe there's a water temperature sensor that, when the water is cold, provides an input to the computer and opens the auxiliary air regulator. These are the FI equivalents of a choke and fast idle settings on a carburetor. The sensor and its associated wiring would be the first thing I'd check.

740 brake squeal

OK, I did my homework -- there is indeed an inherent problem with your car. Sometime in 1987, Volvo replaced the 10-1/2" front rotors on your car (one piece with the wheel hub) with 11-1/4" units (separate rotor and hub) due to premature wear problems. Upgrade kits are available. I'll bet your car was never upgraded.

The carbonlike deposits and squeal do not indicate any problems, but they are annoying. You can eliminate both problems by using PBR (also sold as Repco) "dustless" brake pads and installing them with anti-squeal strips (any brand). All the parts you need to upgrade are available from RPR or ipd. Have Volvo or a Volvo specialist do the upgrade work -- parts and labor probably a bit under $1000. I suggest that this is a sensible investment that will result in years of trouble-free driving -- well, stopping, anyway!

1800E poor running after warm start

Your car does not have an oxygen sensor. Sounds to me like one of the several devices that should only activate when cold (the FI equivalents of a "choke") is coming on even though the engine is warm. Likely culprits are the auxiliary air regulator or the thermal time switch, both easy to access and replace. The cold start injector can only fire when the starter motor is engaged, so that's not it . . . More help, please, experts!

Expert sends:

The fuel injection system on the 1800E has many components that can be very expensive to replace, and it is difficult to tell from the symptoms which component is acting up. It is best to use a scientific approach with a troubleshooting guide like the one at the end of the fuel system chapter in the Haynes manual.

Failing that, I always say do the cheapest thing first. In this case, the cheapest thing is to replace the injector seals, o-rings and bushings. Even if this is not the cause of the problem (and it might well be), it is a job that must be carried out about every 60,000 miles anyway.

For more information, visit Goodspeed's Volvo 1800 Newsletter and read the story about injector seal replacement under "Fuel System." The address: http://www.startext.net/homes/ggoodspe/INDEX.HTM

The "ideal" B18...

Mike, you're opening up a huge subject. There are as many opinions as there are B18 owners. We've had enough questions along the same lines that we will run a series of articles in future issues on rebuilding and hotrodding B18 and B20 engines. For now, you can get a good start by clicking to the new ipd website and ordering a catalog. If you search around in all the stuff for new Volvos, you will find sections on cam kits and big-bore kits. There are many things to be done beyond this, too. Consensus seems to be that these engines will make about 140 HP (with a disproportionate torque increase), run on stuff you can buy at a gas station, and still idle.

240 needs more Vroooom

1) I want to add a 2.5" exhaust system with a single turbo muffler like those kits available from IPD. Does anyone know if I will encounter problems with lack of compression due to the lack of backpressure without improving the breathing on the intake side of things?

No worries with that, however, 2.5" is overkill. 2" will give you the same performance and be easier to quiet down. I use a 2" system with a "mini-turbo" muffler on our 122S/B20, and it is quite snarly. You can always add a fat tailpipe for vanity.

2) Is there a commercially available header available for the B20 that won't cause clearance problems in my 240 and can be used with the fuel injection manifold of my B20F?

I don't know. Not much is made for B20 in the 240, since it is the exception and not the rule. You want to retain the intake manifold support bracket, in any case. If you can find an old IPD header, I suspect it will work -- it tucks very close to the block and is made to fit a 2" pipe.

3) I have thought of advancing the timing slightly for a little more power, any thoughts on this, suggestions as to the degree of advance that will work, I don't often rev above 4700 RPM.?

You can try advancing more until you encounter "pinging," then back it back down. There are too many variables at work from car to car for me to suggest a specific setting. If you are willing to commit to using higher octane gas, you can push it a little bit further. Do not tolerate pinging -- it will hurt your motor!

4) I would like to open up the breathing a bit with a K & N filter and would like to fabricate some type of induction system to lower intake air temperature for more power. Will opening up the filter box adversely affect the airflow sensor plate in the fuel distribution assembly?

I'd recommend the K & N filter, but I would leave the induction tubing alone. The airflow sensor will simply defeat your efforts. In any case, the limitation is in the head design, not the induction system. No profit to be made there.

5) How do the stock B20s in the P1800 make so much more power than my B20F? Is this solely due to the induction system or is it cam-related? Does anyone have any ideas how to sneak some more juice from my B20 without breaking the bank?

To the best of my knowledge, the B20F in the '72 and '73 182 and 183 is the same motor as yours. The performance difference is because the 1800 is considerably lighter than your car. '70 and '71 B20E produced more power with much higher compression and a more aggressive cam. The E motor would not make you happy in your heavier car with today's gas. The IPD big bore stuff will give you noticeably more grunt, but figure in the machining costs, and your bank may well be broken -- about $1700 for big pistons, cam kit (that "low end torque" unit is what you're after), machining and balancing if you do the building yourself. Such a motor will be able to use more gas than your present FI will provide -- you may have to go to a higher volume fuel pump, etc. It can be done, though!

Any advice is greatly appreciated and will most likely be utilized -- my brick is a little too bricklike.
Rob Martin

There's always the V8 conversion option. I hate to tell you to just buy a GT Turbo after all the good work you've already done! What do the rest of you think about Rob's questions?